This is a duct felt seal for a dryer. The duct felt seal allows the front-load dryer drum to glide smoothly on the front panel. Your dryer will not function properly if the drum felt seal is compromis.
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This Drive Belt is 89.5" long and comes in black, featuring four ribs on the inside for a better grip. This is a long belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and th.
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This is a genuine OEM part that works for some models of GE, and Hotpoint models. This Lint Filter is used for Dryer.
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This OEM replacement dryer slide bearing is white in color, and approximately 3 inches long. The slide bearings are supportive linings for your dryer. If they have eroded, or are damaged, the drums wi.
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This is the door switch for your dryer. Door switches are used to communicate with the control board when the door is fully closed, so the drying cycle can safely begin, and if it is opened so it can .
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This is a replacement O-ring for the drum bearing retainer on your dryer. The drum bearing is found at the back of the dryer drum. The O-ring is designed to create a seal on the drum bearing. The O-r.
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This timer is a genuine OEM part supplied by the manufacturer for use in dryers. It is a high-quality replacement part that is designed to fit just like the original for your convenience. The timer co.
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December 14, 2022 I need a dryer knob for this dryer it fell off in my hand it the smaller knob on this unit For model number HTX21EASK0WWHello Vernell, thank you for reaching out. We have researched your model and found the Control Knob you are looking for is part number PS11736624. If you need help placing an order for it, please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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GE Dryer issue: The drum doesn't spin when I take my finger off the start button. It activates when I press it to start. Please advise. any guidance is appreciated.
For model number HTX21EASK0WWHi Antwayne, thank you for reaching out. According to our research, the issue you mentioned with your dryer is due to faulty push to start switch, part number PS3487190. You may need to replace this to fix the issue. We hope this sorts out your problem!
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Hi Sreve, thank you for getting in touch. If your model is not turning on, we would recommend checking the terminal block, part number PS1015628. Glad to be of assistance!
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Dryer spins but no heat. I’ve cleaned the dryer vent, replaced PS11772030 and PS12073908 so far. I noticed the timer is no longer advancing through the cycle and will spin for hours. Will replacing the timer fix all of these issues, or is there another part I will need to resolve this issue?
For model number HTX21EASK0WWHello Cassie, thank you for your inquiry. The compatible timer for your model is part number PS11763067, and replacing the timer will most probably fix all the issues. Glad to be of help!
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Replacing the Retainer O-Ring" />
Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on.
This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.
I had to take most of the dryer apart because there is no rear access to the motor. It turned out to be easy to dissasembel the dryer. The only problem that I had was that I could not figure out how to route the belt around the motor and the idol pullies. I could not find anywhere that gave instructions on how to properly tension the belt . Read more . I finally figured out that the idoler pulley needs to be locked in place on the right side of the engie mount. Then the belt needs to be routed over idoler pulley and under the motor pulley. Finally release the idoler pully from the locked postion to put tension on the belt. It really turned out to be pretty easy.
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This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter). colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
. Read more >I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
